The Pound Cake

Darnell pulled the second paper halfway out of the brown envelope, and then all the way. It was a bill of sale on heavy cream stock, from a restaurant group in Atlanta, and the name of my restaurants ran across the top in capital letters. Darnell read the figure to himself, and then aloud, in a voice gone hoarse. “Ten million three hundred thousand dollars.” He set the paper down next to the pound cake. “Mama. You sold all six?” I said, “In August, baby. Every one. And every cook and cashier kept a job.” The smile of Crystal, which had been frozen in place, began to crack at the corners.

“Mae,” Crystal said, and her voice had lost its honey, “you could have told us.” I said, “I could have. And you could have told me where my tax refunds went.” I laid the IRS letter beside the contract. “Two years. Eleven thousand eight hundred dollars. Deposited to an account ending in 9058.” I looked at her steadily. “You said you put them toward my property taxes. The bank pays my property taxes, honey. I have never missed a bill in my life.” Darnell had not touched the pound cake. He looked from the letter to his wife, and a slow, dreadful understanding came over his face.

“It is your account,” he said. “Crystal. That is the account for your sister, the one you said you were saving for her wedding.” Crystal said, “Darnell.” He said, “You told me you had a side job doing taxes for the neighbors.” She said, “I do.” He said, “Mama is not a neighbor.” His voice cracked. “Mama taught me to read at that kitchen table. She worked eighteen hours a day to pay for my college. And you took her refunds, and you ordered a debit card in her name, and you sat in her house and ate her cobbler.” Crystal began to weep. The ceiling fan clicked around and around.

A tax refund letter in a pocketbook brought a restaurant contract to a Sunday dinner and gave one cook the afternoon to bring her son and his wife back to the table.

I cut myself a slice of the pound cake, because my hands needed something to do. “Crystal,” I said, “I am not going to scream at you. I have watched women scream at each other across tables all my life, and it never fixed a single thing.” I took a bite. It was a little dry. I swallowed it. “I want you to tell me why. Not the story you tell yourself. The true one.” She wiped her eyes with a napkin. For a while the only sound was the fan. Then she said, in a thin, shaky voice, “Because I was ashamed.”

Crystal pressed both hands flat against the table. “Darnell makes a good living,” she said. “But everything I grew up around was hand me down. I swore I would never be poor again. And then the car broke, and the roof leaked, and I took a little from the refund. And then a little more.” She looked up at her husband. “I did not know how to stop. And your mother was so kind. She never asked. Every time she did not ask, I felt like a worse person.” Darnell sat down heavily. He put his head in his hands.

I asked them to listen. “Here is what is going to happen,” I said, in the voice I once used for the line cooks. “The debit card gets cut up. The account gets closed. Crystal is going to sit down with my lawyer on Tuesday and sign a statement, and she is going to repay every dollar, over time, out of her own paycheck.” I turned to my son. “And you, Darnell, are going to stop apologizing for the weather and start being a husband to your wife. She needs more than a paycheck. She needs somebody to say, we are in this together, and mean it.”

The IRS reversed the refunds in March, with a letter of apology and a check, and my lawyer helped Crystal open a payment plan. She paid on the first of every month, by hand, in a plain envelope that I did not open until she had left. Darnell, for the first time in years, came to the house on his own, on Saturdays, to mow the lawn. We did not talk about it. We sat on the porch with glasses of sweet tea and watched the neighbor children chase the mail truck. I felt my chest ease, a little more each week.

In April, I opened a seventh restaurant. Not a big one. A little building on Pio Nono Avenue, where I had started, with a counter and a dozen stools. Chicken by Mae, it says on the window, in red letters. I do not own the old name anymore, but the group that bought it let me keep one door. I hired Crystal to run the register. She was nervous the first morning, and dropped a handful of quarters, and I knelt down to help her pick them up. We found the last one under the napkin dispenser, and she held it out to me with a trembling hand.

She worked at that counter for a year. She learned the names of the regulars. She learned how a customer who is tired and sad needs to be handed his plate without a lecture. She learned that the best thing a person can do for a hungry stranger is to look him in the eye and say, you are welcome here. One afternoon, I came in and found her sitting in the back, shelling peas, with her shoes off and her hair tied up in a scarf. She looked up at me, and she looked ten years younger. “Mae,” she said, “I think I like it here.”

On the second Sunday of May, Darnell and Crystal brought a pound cake to my house. It was lopsided and a little dark on the bottom, and Crystal said, “I made it myself.” I cut three slices. I ate mine slowly, on the porch, in my yellow dress. It was not as good as mine. But it was sweet, and it was warm, and it was made by hands that were trying. I licked the sugar from my thumb. “Next time,” I said, “less oven. More patience.” And all three of us laughed.

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