The Kids Menu

Samuel folded his napkin, set it beside his plate of half eaten grilled cheese, and said to my husband in front of twelve of my friends, “Daniel, the bookie from Gastonia came to see me last week. We need to talk about what you promised him.” I sat at the head of the table in the private room of the steakhouse in SouthPark with the torn bill still in my hand, thirty eight years old, and I understood in one dreadful second that the only person at that table who had not been fooled for years was the old man in the brown suit.

Samuel did not shout. He told the story as a taxi driver tells the way to the airport, one turn at a time. Daniel owed a man named Rocco Dell one hundred and ninety thousand dollars, from football and basketball and a long winter of bad weekends. A week earlier, Daniel had signed a paper promising Rocco the lease of one of his father buildings, the very building where we were sitting, as a payment. He had not asked Samuel. He had signed with his own name, as if the building were his to give.

“Rocco came to my house on Thursday with the paper,” said Samuel quietly. “He is a polite young man. He said he was sorry to trouble me. I told him I would take care of the debt. But I told him also that no one in my family will ever sign my buildings away again.” My friends were staring into their plates. The manager had backed out of the room. I could not look at Daniel. I could not look at my friends, or at the manager, or at the waiter holding the dessert tray in the doorway. I could not look at anyone. I looked at the grilled cheese, and it was a perfect grilled cheese.

A grilled cheese ordered from a kids menu gave one daughter in law the evening to bring her husband back to his father in Charlotte.

I gave my terms in the quiet of that private room, with my voice so unsteady that I had to stop twice. “Samuel, I owe you an apology that I do not know how to make. You will have it in front of everyone who heard me. Daniel, tomorrow you are going to the program in Gastonia that your father has found, and I am going with you to the front door. I am not leaving you. But I am also not paying for any more of this, and I am not hiding it from my friends. Everyone in this room is invited to come and see what a family looks like when it stops pretending.”

Samuel looked at me with great gentleness. “Jessica,” he said, “I came to this country in 1974 with one suitcase. I drove a cab for twenty years. People told me to order off the cheap side of the menu, and I did, and I saved every dollar, and one day I bought the building where I had once been told to wait outside.” He smiled. “I do not mind the kids menu. I like the grilled cheese. What I minded was watching my son shrink every year in a house where no one would say his problem aloud.”

It was the sight of the paper in the hand of his father that did it. Daniel sprang up from his chair, snatched the signed note off the table, and bolted for the door of the private room, intending to tear it to pieces in the hallway. He had his hand on the knob when the general manager, who had come back with a bottle of sparkling water, put out a broad arm across the doorway. “Mr. Oyelaran,” said the manager, politely, “I believe your father is speaking.” Daniel stopped. His shoulders caved.

He turned slowly. His eyes were red. Samuel rose from his seat, walked to the door, and took the paper from his son. He did not scold him. He simply put an arm around his shoulders and held him as one holds a frightened horse, and said a few words in Yoruba, very low. I did not understand them. But I saw Daniel close his eyes. I saw twelve friends look away. And I saw the manager quietly lock the door from the outside, to give the family a moment.

The money consequences were complete. Samuel paid the debt of one hundred and ninety thousand dollars directly to Rocco Dell by cashier check on Monday, and in the same transaction had the man sign a statement that no further claim existed. Rocco was subsequently arrested in a state investigation of illegal gambling, and the paper was voided. Samuel did not charge Daniel a penny of it. He asked only that he finish the program, and that he come to the building each Saturday and learn what a lease is.

In the name of Folasade, his wife who passed in 2018, Samuel started the Folasade Oyelaran Fund, and I sit on its board. It pays for gambling counseling, and for college scholarships for the children of taxi and rideshare drivers, in Mecklenburg, Gaston and Union counties. In the first year we sent nineteen young people to college and counseled fifty one families. One was a daughter of a cab driver from Monroe who studied pharmacy. When she received the letter she drove straight to the garage and showed her father.

Daniel came home from Gastonia after ninety days, and on his first Saturday he sat with Samuel in the little brick house in Hidden Valley, learning the leases. On my own first Saturday, I drove over with a casserole, and Samuel opened the door in his brown suit. I asked if I might sit with them. He pulled out a chair. Later, when we went out for lunch together at the little diner on the corner, I handed him the kids menu myself. “Grilled cheese,” I said. He smiled, and I ordered the same.

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