I shined my flashlight on it and dropped that screwdriver right on the concrete, because what was lashed behind that compressor, wrapped up careful in that greasy shop rag, was a book.
A recipe book. An old marble composition book, the black-and-white speckled kind, swelled fat and soft from years of kitchen steam, held shut with a rubber band gone to glue. And when I peeled it open, right there on the first page in a slanted old hand was the thing half of middle Georgia would have paid money to see. The sauce. The rub. The mop. Every recipe that ever came out of that pit at Ashby BBQ, the ribs my daddy took us for after church my whole childhood, written down by hand and hidden in the one place a thief or a bank or a bankruptcy could never get at it.
I knew the story once I sat and thought on it. Old Mr. Ashby, who started that place after the war, had passed a few years back, and his boy ran it into the ground and finally sold it off. But before the old man died, he must have seen it coming. His son did not have the touch and did not have the heart, and the recipes that made that pit famous were going to die right along with the building. So the old man wrote them all down, every last secret, and lashed them behind the compressor of the walk-in fridge, and left it to chance. Left it to whoever loved that place enough to take a twenty-dollar icebox home and scrub it out proper.
There was a note folded into the back cover, in the same slanted hand. Whoever finds this cooked with love, or you would not have looked this hard. So feed people. That is all it was ever about.
I sat down on my carport floor and cried, and then I laughed, and then I called my sister. Because I run a little lunch counter, and it does all right, but it has never been anything special, just a place folks come because it is close. Not anymore.
We put Ashby ribs back on the menu this spring. The real ones, the exact ones, off the old man own hand. The first Sunday we ran them we sold clean out by one oclock, and there were people in my little counter I had not laid eyes on since the old joint closed, grown men going quiet over a plate of ribs that tasted like being ten years old again. One old fellow told me he proposed to his wife in a booth at Ashby back in nineteen seventy-one, and he had not tasted that sauce since, and he had to go sit in his truck a minute.
I never met Mr. Ashby to speak of. But he reached forward out of a closed-down building and a broke-down fridge and handed a whole town back its Sunday dinner, and handed me back the taste of my own daddy taking us for ribs. Some folks leave money behind. That old man left the one thing that was truly his, hidden where only somebody who cared would ever find it, and asked one thing in return. Feed people. I aim to, long as I am able.
